Home Theatre :
Home theatre is a theatre built in a home, designed to mimic (or exceed) commercial theatre performance and feeling, more commonly known as a home cinema. Today, home cinema implies a real "cinema experience" at a private home
Let See How to Design the Home Theatre:-
Many people think that the ultimate home theatre can be achieved by buying expensive equipment, that is a great surround-sound stereo and large flat screen television. However, just like the real theatre needs more than just "big stuff" so does the home theatre. The room must be planned and built before putting in the sound reinforcement gear, viewing screen and new sofa.
A big factor in building the home theatre is to build a sound-proof room, a space that will block out everyday noises in favour of the ones that enhance the movie-watching experience. How this room performs relies on the plans and materials used in the construction. This means not allowing the good sound waves to incur rattles or buzzes due to poor material and/or construction. Therefore, building the home theatre requires blocking out unwanted sounds, both from inside and out, and enhancing the sounds that are meant to be heard.
1. Suspended floor
Many recording studios accomplished a room worthy of great performances by having a floor that did not actually sit on the floor joists. Some designers used cork or other sound-dampening materials but today this is accomplished with sheets of rigid foam and neoprene pads. The joists of the new floor are topped with either of these materials and then the substrate is glued down on this surface. This stops any vibrations from coming through because the waves are stopped by the added materials. Then the spaces between the joists are packed with fiberglass insulation to prevent the low frequencies of the subwoofers from rumbling below the floor in the hollow spaces.
2. Wall Treatment
After the floor has been built the walls of the room will be supported by this platform. Like the floor they can be buffered by a rigid foam sheet or two walls can be built next to each other. This doubled wall is then packed with an acoustic barrier like fiberglass insulation.
3. Drop Ceiling
A drop-ceiling grid is easy to make and can support sound-deadening tiles. The face of standard ceiling tiles can be covered with soft foam and then material to give a custom look. If the room is still "lively" with sound foam banners can be suspended at intervals.
4. Acoustic Absorption and Diffusion
The walls will have to be adorned with two acoustic materials to configure the right sound. These will affect sound absorption and sound diffusion. For absorption porous coverings are chosen that will trap sound. Diffusive materials can shape sound and even direct it. Plain, painted drywall will allow the frequencies to remain active while blocks of sound deadening foam hung on the walls can absorb the unwanted frequencies. For the perfectionist here are technical manuals that show how to build a perfect room with the exact frequency specification.
5. Air Handling
All rooms, especially sealed ones, require air circulation. In a home theatre vents should be placed at the rear of the room well below earshot. On the other side of the room the ducts are fed by a low-velocity, air exchanger, one that is rated for ten to fifteen changes of air per hour. Duct liners such as fiberglass and foam give better noise blocking as does a plenum silencer on the unit. A commercial HVACdistributor will have these items..
6. Special Caulking
An acoustic caulking is used to support pieces that could buzz or rattle if glued together. It is a sticky substance that never dies but provides a buoyant cushioning. Vents and wood-on-wood connections could use this caulking.
A pre-hung, solid-core exterior door makes a great entrance because it already has a sound-deadening foam core as well as acoustic weatherstripping. The door will have to be covered with material as steel can produce echoes.
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